Ant Keeping Guide
Heating
Learn how to effectively heat your ant colony
Proper heating is essential for maintaining a healthy and thriving ant colony, but it's only necessary for some ant species. In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about providing the right temperature for your ants, including how to use heat cables and heat mats effectively.
Information
Heat cables or Heat Mats?
At AntsDavey, we strongly recommend heat cables over heat mats for heating ant colonies. Heat mats rely on conduction, meaning they must directly touch the object being heated. This makes them less versatile, especially for test tubes or setups with multiple species requiring different temperatures. In contrast, heat cables emit radiant heat, allowing for more flexibility. They don’t need direct contact, making it easier to create optimal temperature gradients. Additionally, you can adjust the height of species setups along the cable to provide varied heat levels, perfect for managing the needs of multiple colonies simultaneously. Heat cables offer a more efficient and adaptable solution for ant-keeping enthusiasts.
Thermostats​
A thermostat is an essential tool for regulating the temperature of your heat cable or heat mat, ensuring a safe and stable environment for your ant colony. It features a dial or digital interface that allows you to set your desired temperature. The thermostat uses a probe to monitor the temperature of the heat source. While you can place the probe directly on the heat source, we recommend positioning it a few millimeters away for more accurate readings. Be sure to secure the probe firmly in place—if it falls, the thermostat won't function correctly, and you risk overheating your ants.
When the temperature drops below the set point, the thermostat activates the heat source. Once the target temperature is reached, it turns the heat source off. This cycling helps prevent overheating, reduces energy consumption, and maintains consistent conditions for your ants.
Using a thermostat is vital to avoid accidental overheating, which could harm your ants or even pose a fire risk. For the best precision and long-term value, consider a pulse proportional thermostat, which provides more accurate and gradual temperature control. However, if you're looking for a budget-friendly option, a basic on/off thermostat with a temperature dial will still work effectively.
Where to buy?​
​Heat cables, pulse proportional thermostats, and on/off thermostats are available for purchase on platforms like eBay, Amazon, or through reptile supply stores such as Swell.
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Please contact me if you're having difficulty finding heating equipment and ill be sure to point you in the right direction.
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Heating Test Tubes​
To properly heat queen ants and colonies in test tubes, the best method is to elevate the test tube above a heat cable. This can be easily done using our Test Tube Stands. Ensure the test tube remains in the dark by using a sleeve or cover to maintain the correct environment for your ants. To monitor the temperature your test tube is receiving, set up a dummy tube beside it. Elevate the dummy tube the same way, place one of our probe Thermometers inside, and seal it with cotton. This dummy tube will help you track the temperature and adjust if needed.
If you're using a heat mat, place a small box with bubble wrap flooring on top of it, then place your test tube with the ant colony inside the box. Position the thermostat probe within the box to control the temperature. Again, set up a dummy tube alongside to ensure you're maintaining the right conditions. This setup can also be used with a heat cable if preferred.
When positioning your heat source, make sure it’s placed on the opposite side of the water reservoir to prevent excessive humidity or rapid evaporation. It’s also important to heat no more than half of the test tube at a time to create a temperature gradient. This allows the ants to choose the most comfortable temperature based on their needs.
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Ant Keeping Guides
For more Ant Keeping Guides, including detailed instructions on setting up test tubes, safely transitioning ants between test tubes, creating tub-and-tube setups, feeding your colony the right balance of protein and carbohydrates, and understanding proper heating techniques, click the button below. These guides are designed to help ant keepers of all experience levels provide the best care for their colonies while making the process as simple and stress-free as possible. Whether you're just starting out or looking to refine your skills, our resources have everything you need to ensure your ants thrive.
Heating Ant Nests and Outworlds
To properly heat ant nests, the best method is to elevate the nest above a heat cable. If your nest has feet, this becomes easier; otherwise, any object that raises the nest slightly will suffice. Be sure the nest remains in the dark by using a sleeve or cover to maintain the proper environment for your ants.
Since most ant nests don't have a built-in thermometer and if you're nest doesn't have a sot for a thermometer probe then you can place a dummy tube beside the nest at the same height to monitor the temperature inside. For better temperature gradients, it's often best to snake the heat cable under the nest, securing it in place. You can wrap the cable underneath the nest multiple times to increase heat if needed, or reduce it by adjusting the cable layout.
When setting the thermostat temperature, take into account the width and material of the bottom of the nest, as the heat must penetrate this layer. If you're using a heat mat, position it directly under the nest, but be sure to only heat part of the nest to create a temperature gradient. This allows the ants to select their preferred temperature. Avoid placing heating equipment under hydration ports, as this may cause excess condensation.
You can also use a heat cable or mat under the outworld. In some cases, ants show more foraging activity when it’s warmer. A day/night cycle with lights on and higher temps during the day, followed by a slightly cooler temperature at night, can mimic natural conditions. However, this isn’t necessary for most ant species. The outworld temperature can vary more, as ants are accustomed to fluctuations outside the nest. You may notice ants sunning their brood in warmer areas of the outworld when it’s warmer than the nest. For ants that do not hibernate and need a constant heat source, we recommend setting up the heat source before moving the ants into the nest. Use one of our Infrared Thermometers to accurately measure the temperature inside the nest. Keep in mind that if you shine the laser through the top panel, the beam may reflect elsewhere, giving you an inaccurate reading. For the most precise measurement, it’s best to remove the top panel before taking the temperature. Measure the floor of the nest, then carefully reassemble the top panel once you're satisfied with the temperature. Be cautious not to overtighten top panels, as acrylic can crack easily under pressure.
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If you have a vertical nest or a circular pod type nest then a heat mat taped to the side of the nest may be the only appropriate way to heat them.
Humdity & Condensation
Humidity inside a test tube is generally sufficient for all ant species, as they will naturally adjust their position based on their preferred humidity level. To increase the humidity in a nest, simply fill the hydration port with water. Adjust the humidity by observing how close the ants are to the hydration port: if they're clustered near it, they likely need more humidity; if they're farther away, reduce the moisture. Let the ants guide you!
If your nest doesn't have hydration ports, it may not be suitable for high-humidity-loving species. Some ants may enjoy a small amount of damp coco fiber inside their nest to manipulate and create their desired microclimate. Be cautious not to add too much, as it could block visibility.
If condensation is an issue and is obstructing your view of the colony, you'll need to heat the top of the nest to match the temperature inside. You can achieve this by adding a layer of heat cable over the top of the nest or the condensed panel. Alternatively, you can place the nest in a warmer room. The most effective method is to place the nest inside a larger open enclosure, such as a vivarium or storage container, and then heat the air within the enclosure using a heat cable. This keeps the air at the desired temperature for the colony, preventing condensation on the top panel since the surface will no longer be cooler than the surrounding air.
Remember, condensation is caused by warm, moist air coming into contact with a cooler surface. Don’t confuse condensation with humidity—humidity is the moisture content in the air, while condensation is the result of temperature differences causing moisture to form on surfaces.
You can check out one of our Hygrometers but truthfully, hygrometers are not the best when used in ant setups due to them failing long-term in high humidity environments and can give off a constant 99% humidity if they become waterlogged.
Personal Use Policy
AntsDavey kindly requests that this care guide be used solely for personal purposes and not for any commercial use. Thank you for respecting this request and supporting our work in providing quality resources for the ant-keeping community.
